SouthMississippiRabbitHunting

Beagle Health

 

 

Beagle Health 

That is Beagle health as practiced by a “Dog Lover Ex-Straw-D-Nair”…  I have always said that if anyone believed in reincarnation, they should be so lucky as to be one of my beloved hounds.  I do try to insure that my critters get the best possible care.  My dad use to tease me about how clean I kept my dog pens.  I would tell him, “I keep them clean as a pen.”  That is, as clean as a pen should be.  You never know when you may end up in the dog house.

I will now try to share my views in four areas that I believe to be vital to beagle health.  Keep in mind, as you  visit each of the following areas this is not the only way to be a responsible owner and friend to your hound, but it is my way.


Contents: 

Initial and Annual Shots

        Preventing Internial Pest (Heart & Gut Worms)

        Preventing Externial Pest (Ticks & Fleas)

Feeding of Pups & Hounds 


 I must warn you, I am a little short sighted about some things and may seem overboard on others, but that is just me being me!.  If you are reading this, more than likely, you have your own ideas about what care your dogs should receive.  I respect your opinion and try to always be open to the experience and ideas of others.  What little I claim to know, I have picked up over the years from those who are wiser and more experienced as a keeper of the hounds.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Notice this area is a work in progress and will take some time to develop but It will get done !!

 

INITIAL AND ANNUAL SHOTS



I never have cared much for shots, but giving them is some better than taking them.  I remember a time when I was just a boy.  It was time to go to the Health Department to get a shot.  We, like most of the youngsters in our trailer park qualified for free shots at the Health Department.  Free or not, I decided that I was not going to get a shot.  I climbed my favorite tree and declared that I would never come down.  My mother tried to get me to come down by spraying me with the water hose.  She should have known I liked getting wet.  Then my sharp shooter brother started trying to shoot me out of the tree with his air rifle.  I then knew how a squirrel must feel as I tried to keep the tree between me and the shooter.   All their efforts could not bring me down. However, when I smelled super and then heard my family eating, my will started to break.  It smelled so good and I did not get any lunch.  This short story ends with a lesson learned.  The only thing worse than getting a shot, is getting a spanking before getting a shot.

The first year or two of a child’s life is one shot after another.  At some point they grow up and only need a booster now and then.  This also is true for puppies and young hounds.  The vaccinations that they take between the age of 6 weeks and 4 months are designed to extend their immunity against a number of life threatening viruses.  If the mother is in good health and current on her shots, then she should be able to pass her immunity on to her pups.  The first milk (first 24 hours after birth) is not milk but colostrum.   Colostrum is packed full of antibodies against the many viruses that could make the pup sick.  The protection received at birth will last for up to 7 weeks.  By eight weeks this immunity has almost disappeared.

To continue this immunity, the pup needs to be vaccinated at about the time the mother’s immunity begins to fade.  I do not know the exact science of all this, but have been led to believe that if the mothers antibodies are still in full force, they will fight off the virus introduced with the injection.  This is the reason several shots are give at space intervals.  The goal is to introduce the vaccine as soon as possible after immunity has lapsed.
 

I have always followed the standard scheduled recommended in nearly every pet supply catalog that carries vaccines.  I do make one small deviation, giving the forth shot at 16 weeks not the standard 15 weeks.

 

There is no getting around it Vaccines are a good thing and if we want to insure the health of our hunting buddies then we will just have to give them the shots they need.


 

How Many Shots ?

I give shots at 6 weeks, 9 weeks, 12 weeks and 16 weeks.
Some breeders give their pups a 5/1 shot at 6 weeks and then they give 7/1 or 8/1 for the other three.  I have never given any pups the 5/1.  I have always used 7/1 for all the shots. To get the best buy for your money you have to buy them in lots of 25.  They do come with expiration dates and I just did not want to get into ordering two different vaccines.  I was sure that 5/1 puppy shots would stay around to long and be outdated before I would use up the 25 doses.  That may be a lame excuse but there it is.  For the last few litters I have used Solo-Jec 7.  This product has served me well.

           
     Solo-Jec-7
      One combination shot for 7 different viruses


Where Can I Get Shots ?

I have ordered shots and other pet supplies from a number of suppliers over the years.  One that I have grown to like is Jeffers Pets.  If you would like their catalogs, just give them a call at    1-800-JEFFERS   that is    (1-800-533-3377) or on the web.. 

http://www.jefferspet.com/


You can purchase these shots from your local co-op or feed store.  They sell single doses with syringe at a higher price.  If you only have one or two pups or hounds to vaccinate then that may be the way you want to go.  If you are working with a litter of pups then you may want to order 25 units from a supplier.  If you have 4 pups in a litter and a pair of older hounds, then you are going to need at least 18 shots. More if you older hounds did not get their annual booster last year.  If they are not current they would need two shot each, one month apart.  Now you need 20 shots. True enough, you may only give some of those pups one or two shots before they go on to their new owners and you are a good pet owner so your grown dogs are current on their shots.


To be conservative say you need just 15 shots.  At the feed store you may pay at least $8.00 per shot.  The 15 shots would cost $120.  At today’s prices, you can get 25 shots, 25 syringes and shipped 2nd day in a cooler with blue ice for under $90.   That is all well and good, but what can you do with the extra shots.  If this is your first rodeo then you may need an extra shot, just in case you should waste one.  I will cover how that can happen a little later when we discuss the actual act of giving the shots.


If you do end up with 10 shots left over, you can check the expiration date and you may have the shots you will need next year.  You may or may not have another litter next year, but you will need a shot for each of your grown dogs.   When I have a litter I always schedule my grown hounds to get their annual shot at the time I give the last shot to the pups.  If I should have a hound in my kennel that did not get a booster last year, then I will give them a shot when the pups are 3 months old and then again when they are 4 months old.  Many times my grown dogs get their shots early.  If the pup’s dates will cause the hounds shots to be late, I go ahead and give the grown dogs their shots when scheduled.  The next year I move the pups up to take their shots at the same time as the older hounds.  Now if you are not too confused, I must say that my goal is to keep them together as mush as possible so I do not have to spend every waking moment thinking about when to give shots.  One other way to make use of extra shots is to share the shipment with a friend.  I order shots every year and sell some to my neighbor at cost.  This is a service to him and helps me recover some of the cost.


Important:

It is very important to keep these shots refrigerated.  When kept refrigerated, they will be good until their expiration date.
Do not be like me and forget to order the syringes and needles at the same time you order the shots.     They only cost about 25 cents each, but you can not do much without them.  (3cc syringes with ¾ inch 22 gage needles are a good choice)

 
3 cc Syringe W/ Needle.

When you receive your cooler packed vaccines they may not be cold, but should be cool.  Put them in the refrigerator until you are ready to administer shots.


 

How to vaccinate your pups and hounds :

Count the days until your new pups will be six weeks old.  Mark it on the calendar and make plans to take care of this important business.  If it falls on a Friday and Saturday is better for you, then put it off for a day.  If it should fall on Monday and Sunday is more convenient then do it a day early.  You will want to ask someone to help you and be available to hold the pups.  At six weeks old it is hard to hold them and give them a shot.


Preparing the Vaccine:

*For each shot you will have two vials.  One will have a white powder, which is the freeze-dried portion of the vaccine.  The second vial will have a clear liquid.

*About a half hour before shot time, you need to remove the number of vials needed from refrigeration.  Do not set them in direct sunlight, but do set them out so they can warm up to about room temperature.  You do not want to give the pup a cold injection.  If you do he may remember and bite you are at least pee on you when he grows up.
 
 

*The vials will have colored caps that will help you know which are the powder and which are the liquid. (All the powder may have gray caps and all the liquid may have blue caps.) You will be mixing the liquid with the powder to form the vaccine.  I like to do this for all the shots to be given so things will go a little faster when I get started vaccinating the pups.  Once mixed the vaccine should be administered within one hour.


Mix the Vaccine:

1.  Make sure to tighten the needle on the syringe.  You do not want it to pop off and lose the vaccine.  This is one of the ways that you can waste a shot and will be glad you have a few extra.

2.  Draw up about a half of a syringe of air. Remove the colored cap from the vial and insert the needle into the liquid vial.  Inject the air.  Next withdraw all the liquid out of the vial and into the syringe. (Note: I have found that if you do not inject some air into the vial, it is hard to draw the liquid into the syringe.)

3.  Next, remove the colored cap from one of the vials containing powder.  Inject the liquid into the vial that contains the freeze-dried or powder portion of the vaccine.

4.  Remove the needle from the vial and shake for a few seconds to mix well.  At this point, I like to check to make sure the chill is off the vaccine.  If it is still cool to the touch, I will roll it in my hot little hands for a while to warm it up.

5.  Draw up some air in the syringe and insert the needle back into the vial containing the vaccine.  Inject the air and then withdraw the entire mixed contents.
 

Normally, I will perform steps 1 – 4 above for each of the shots to be given, prior to giving the first pup a shot.  I may or may not do step 5 in advance.  You are now ready to give that first shot.  You have the vaccine mixed and in the syringe and you have someone to help hold the pups.


 

The Injection:

1.  You are NOT going to inject into a vain, but I still like to get the air out of the vaccine.  Hold the syringe with the needle pointing up.  Firmly holding the syringe with one hand, use your index finger of the other hand to thump the syringe.  This will cause any bubbles in the vaccine to come to the top near the needle.  With all the air up near the top, trying to escape, slowly push the plunger up until all the air is out and a small amount of the vaccines move up and out the needle.

2.  Puppies all have lots of loose skin so you will not have any problem finding a place to administer the shot.  With your assistant holding the pup, select a shot location near the right or left shoulder.  Lift the skin up into a triangle and inject into the middle of the triangle.  Care must be taken to insure the end of the needle is in and under the skin before you inject the vaccine.  The ¾ inch needle helps to keep you from going in one side and out the other.  More than once I have gone in one side, out the other and wasted the vaccine on the ground.  Here is another reason for having a few to many shots.

3.  Your pup may not like being held down and they may wine a little.  The skin that you are penetrating will have very few nerve ending and little if any pain will be experienced by your pup.

4.  Repeat this process for all your pups.

5.  You may find that you do not need any assistance when giving annual boosters to your older hounds.


Important !!


Make sure to dispose of the syringes and needles in a way that would prevent anyone from getting stuck.  I often drop the empty vials and syringes into a bleach jug.  I will stick the needle in the side of the jug and break it off.

If you have never vaccinated your pups before, I wish the best of luck on your first time.  It can only get easier with practice and experience.  Your local vet will be glad to take care of all this for you.  However, if you have a large number of hounds, it is far more practical to take maters into your own hands. You can keep some of that money you would be spending at the vet office to purchase a new beagle for your wife.

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Pest Control

A Healthy hound is a happy hound, at least happier than one that is infested with worms, fleas and ticks. 

            If I was worm free, I would catch

                                                                                                  that bunny...I

If you have ever been the unfortunate owner of a worm infested, flea bit tick transporting hound then you have seen the results of neglect.  It may not be you that allowed this poor animal to get down and headed for an early grave but you are the one with the opportunity to make a difference in this critters life.  This bag of bones and parasites lives a miserable life while waiting to die.  Some may be so far gone that you will be faced with the hard decision to put them down.  I do hope this is an extreme situation that you have never faced.  It is so much better to get a healthy hound then work to keep them that way.

 

There are many approaches to dealing with this important aspect of canine care and some will be more effective than others.  You may already have an excellent worm and pest prevention program that works well for you.  If it is not broke then please don’ fix it.  But if you find yourself always working to rid your hounds of worm’s fleas and ticks, then what I have to share may be of some worth to you.  As in all areas that I have addressed on this site, I only want to share what I do and how it works for me.

 I am already feeling better  and getting closer

 

I will now share my proactive plan to keep my hounds free of heart worms, intestinal worms, ticks and fleas. 

 

HEARTWORM PREVENTION 

Heartworms present a real threat to our hunting buddies.  These hounds spend most of there lives outside and exposed to swarms of heartworm carrying mosquitoes.  This is a problem throughout the US but an even greater problem in the south.  Mosquitoes and all the risk they represent are present in large numbers all over the south from March thru mid November.  These blood suckers hatch from every water hole and swamp.  The overwhelming numbers are uncontrollable and even with the increased efforts in recent years to eradicate mosquitoes their numbers keep growing.  This all means that our hounds will be bitten by mosquitoes and the odds are they will introduce heartworm larva into them.  The larva will stay in the blood stream for a time and then attach to the walls of the heart.  They grow to adults and clog the heart.  The adult worms cause heart disease, reduce performance and may cause death.     

 

 

HOW YOU GOING TO SAVE US HOUNDS?

 

There are a number of quality heartworm prevention products available for your use.  These are designed and marketed to protect your dog.  They help to block the life cycle of the heartworm and prevent the larva from maturing to the harmful adults.  Most of these products are taken by mouth and must be given to the dog once each month after they reach the age of 6 months.  Due to the length of time it takes for the larva to mature, it is considered safe to start prevention at or around six months of age.  Some newer products are only given once every six months.  These must be administered by injection and are given by your vet.  Both the oral and injected preventatives must be obtained from your vet.  The vet will run a standard blood test to insure the dog is not already infested.  If they do already have heartworms, you may be in for some sizable expenses.  Chances are they do not already have heartworms and the vet will start a heartworm preventative.  The cost per dog is a little much if you have a large pack.  It is not much to pay for the vet visit and the meds for one or two family pets, but it starts to add up when you have a pack of hounds to keep on the program.

 

Sounds Like I am doomed if we can’t come up with an inexpensive plan to follow.

 

For years, keepers of the hounds from all over have been using a livestock products to provide an effective heartworm preventative.  This product is available from your local co-op, feed store or animal supply catalogs.  You do not normal need to pay for a vet visit and the price per hound is well within your price range.  Chances are you already know about Ivomec and may already be using this product and paying only a fraction of the cost.

 

Mix Ivomec with punch then give it to your hound by mouth.

Ivomec comes in a 50 ml container and cost anywhere from $35 to $45, depending on where you purchase it.  You may find the best prices at some of the animal supply catalogs.  Such a small amount is needed to protect your hounds.  However, this small amount must be given every month to insure protection.

 

   Tell us the cost per hound.  $$$$$$$$   

 Most houndsmen use 1/10th of a cc per 10 lbs of body weight.  (Some vets now recommend 1/10th cc per 15 lbs.)  I trust my vet on this one and in recent years have cut back to just 1/10th of a cc for every 15 pounds of body weight.  That means that a 30 pound beagle would need 2/10th of a cc once each month.

To make the math a little easier for me, let us assume you found Ivomec at the high price of $50 for a 50 ml container.  (1 ml = 1 cc)  This would mean that 1 cc would cost $1.  2/10th of a cc, (treatment for one month for one 30 pound hound cost 20 cents).  This is a bargain when compared to the cost of going to the vet.  It may be safe to say that you can take care of 30 hounds for about the price of one taken to the vet.

 

Keep in mind that you can safely start a young pup on Ivomec at six months.  If you do bring a new hound into your kennel and you do not know or you are not sure of the hound’s history, then you may want to spend some bucks and take them in for a blood test by the vet.  If they get a clean bill of health then you can start them on Ivomec.  If they are infested you will have to make some choices.  At considerable expense your vet may be able to rid them of the heartworms.  However, there is a risk in the procedure.  You could spend your money and loose the dog anyway.  You may choose to not do anything.  This hound may hunt for you for a number of years or may only last a few seasons.  This little rabbit chaser will not have the stamina or be able to perform at the level of a healthy hound.

 

 I am starting to worry.  If you keep them hounds heartworm fIree, we bunnies don’t have a chance.  

 

 

 Sign me up for the Ivomect plan and tell us just what a keeper of the hounds must do to make it all work.

Ivomec is given by mouth.  I mix it with fruit punch.  This makes it easer to give to the hound.  You need to know the approximate weight of each hound.  I weigh and record each dog’s weight every-other month at the same time I giving them worm medicine for intestinal worms.  That process will be covered later.  This allows me to have a good idea of how much hey weigh.  Each hound receives 1/10th of one cc for each 15 pounds of body weight.

 

Here are steps to giving Ivomec:

          1:       Using a syringe with needle, draw out a full 2 cc of Ivomec.  You may have to inject air into the Ivomec container to prevent a suction when you withdraw the Ivomec.  This is the amount that I draw to take care of 10 hounds with an average weight of 30 lbs each.   If you have fewer hounds, then you would not need as much. The syringe is marked in 1/10th of a cc. This will be useful when measuring out the amount for each hound.

          2:       Using a second syringe without a needle, draw up about 1 cc of punch.  Pull the plunger down just a little to leave a space between the punch and the end of the syringe.  Now take the other syringe (the one with the needle and has the large amount of Ivomec) put the needle into the end of the syringe that has the punch.  Slowly inject Ivomec into the punch, while watching the plunger go down.  Stop when the right amount has been injected.  Remember the syringe is marked off in 1/10th amounts.  If you have a 30 pound hound then you will need 2/10th of a cc.  A 20 lb hound would require 1.5/10th cc.  A 15 lb pup would only get 1/10th cc.  (That is a very small amount) but enough to provide the needed protection. 

          3:       Now place your thumb over the end of the syringe with the punch and shake.  This will mix the Ivomec with the punch.

          4:       Hold your dog’s mouth open and inject the punch into the roof of the dog’s mouth.       

          5:       Repeat this process for each hound.

 

 

 I am footloose and heartworm free.  I am ready to do some serious bunny chasing.

     Run for it boys!     

 

A proactive prevention program is your only hope for keeping your beagle buddies heartworm free.  If they are health they will be able to perform well. To keep them healthy you must keep them on this very inexpensive prevention program.  Some hound owners that live in colder climates will stop giving ivomec or what ever prevention they use during the cold months when mosquitoes are dormant.  Here in the south, I keep them on the program throughout the year.  Even in the cold months mosquitoes have been know to hold up in some warm corner to venture out on a sunny afternoon looking for blood.  To keep track, all my hounds are given ivomec on the first day of each month.  A treatment provides protection for up to 35 days, so if you forget or can not get it done on the first of the month, you do have a day or two before you place your hounds at risk.  You may want to do it the first Saturday of each month.  That will work as long as you pick a time and stick to it.  This is a very quick and easy process.  Having weighed all my hounds the middle of every other month, I have a good idea what they weigh.  My hounds are in off-ground kennels and they will step to the gate for their little taste of fruit punch.  This is just too easy and economical for anyone to pass up.

warning:

All of what I have shared with you has been about beagles and their well being. I have tried to explain what I do with my hounds and how it works for me.  You have to make the best decision for you and your hounds.  I do not have any experience with Ivomec and other breeds.  So based on what you have read here, do not go out and start giving  Ivomec to a Sheppard of Collie and expect the same results.  In fact, you could even do them some harm.

It takes a lot of heart for our beagle buddies to do what they do.  Give them a chance to reach their full potential by doing your part to keep them heartworm free.

 

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Treatment and Prevention of Internal Worms.

 

There are more than a few internal parasites that are of great concern to every dog owner.  To keep them hunting hard we must work to keep our pups and hounds worm free. 

The four primary types of worms that affect the digestive track of our hounds are hookworms, roundworms, tapeworms and whipworms.  Each of these parasites can in their on way, bring your hounds to death’s door.  Some pups are born infested with worms passed from their mom.  Others may come in contact with worms when they eat the droppings or remains of some flea infested critter.

 

 Hookworms - that infect canines get their name from the hook-like mouth parts they use to attach to the intestinal walls of their hosts. Despite their small size, hookworms can siphon a large volume of blood from their hosts and cause serious illness, especially in young dogs. 


Roundworms - These large worms live and feed in the small intestine of their host. Though all ages of dogs are susceptible to this parasite, puppies are generally hardest hit by infestations and may become seriously ill.


Tapeworm - The worms attach themselves to the inner walls of the intestine, but do not suck blood in the same volume as do hookworms. Though it is not among the most harmful of parasites, it is still important to minimize tapeworm infections in your companion animals, as they may be passed to other mammals and occasionally humans.


Whipworms - are small thread-like parasites that embed deep within the lining of the colon (large intestine) and cecum.  The canine whipworm, is a common parasite and is a major cause of diarrhea in dogs.

To learn all about hookworms, whipworms, roundworms and tapeworms you can visit the site that first reviled to me the very best way to protect my hounds from these worms.

The Beagles Unlimited site is an excellent source of this and lots of other health and training information:

http://beaglesunlimited.com/health/canine-intestinal-worms-and-inexpensive-treatment 

On that site you will find their strong endorsement of Safeguard.  This product is an outstanding livestock wormer that is by far the best all-round de-worming treatment available for our hounds.

I will now share how I use the information that I have learned about Safeguard.   This product has helped to keep my hounds’ worm free for more than a decade.  You too can have a pen full of health, happy, worm-free hounds.

 

Safe-Guard 10% Suspension (Fenbendazole)

While Safe-guard has been produced and marketed for the use of livestock (horses, goats and cows) it can be safely used to treat infested hounds and then serve to keep them worm free.

Advantages:

There are a number of advantages to using Safeguard  to deworm and then protect your hounds from worm infestiation.

1.  100% Efective:  Safeguard gets the job done.  Safeguard will take care of all four of the primary canine worms that can infest our hounds.  Where it may take two or three different "Dog Wormers" to deworm hounds, Safeguard works to rid our hounds of all four worms commonly found in dogs..

The first time I used Safeguard on a pack of worm infested hounds, I was impressed with the results.  I was sure that several hounds were full of tapeworms.  I gave them a three day treatment that I will describe later.  After the first days treament, the two hounds that I suspected for tapeworms started to empty out the worm segments. By the third day they were worm free. 

Safeguard is an effective dewormer and the very best worm preventer I have found.  Usinging this amazing product, I have maintained a worm free pack for years.

2.  Easy to Use:  Safeguard comes in both liguid and a paste.  While the paste maybe found on many Co-op and feed store shelves it is some what of a challange to measure out and to dispense.  I use and highly recommend the liguid.  The correct amount can be easly drawn up into a syringe and then put in the back of the hounds throat. The liquid is always the best buy.

3.  Unbeatable Price:  When compared with the high prices of most dog wormers or expensive visits to the vet, a good Safeguard plan can not be beat.

If you use the paste, you may pay $7.95 (2010 price) for a 25 gm tube.  That is about 32 cents per gm.

You can get a 125 ml btl of the liquid for $15.95.  This container is marked for goats, but is the very same as the ones marked for horses or cows. At this price it is 13 cents per ml.  (Note: gm = ml= cc)

If you have six or more hounds, like I do, then you may want to get the big 1000 ml container that is marked for dairy cows.  While the paste and the 125 ml size can normaly be picked up off the shelf at the co-op, the large 1000 ml will normally need to be ordered and will include some shipping.  The 1000 ml unit now cost $108.75 plus the shipping which could be a total of $120.00 or 12 cents per ml.

The worming schedule and amounts to give each hound will be covered later in this article when we will learn that an average size, 25 lb hound will require 15 ml of Safeguard 6 times a year.  90 ml per year  (at 12 cents per ml) would cost just $10.80.  That is a real bargin.

4.  Safe Dewormer:  As the name "Safeguard" implies this product is safe.  Safeguard is safe to give to very young puppies, hounds and pregnant or lactating bitches.  If a little more than the recomended dose is given, that is not a problem. 

 

Sources for Safeguard:

Safeguard can be found on the shelves of most co-ops and feed stores.  If you are looking for the 1000 ml container you may have to order it from some Pet/Livestock supply provider.  I have used a number of sources over the years but have found Jeffers in Dothan Al. to be one of the best.  You can find them on the net:

http://www.jefferspet.com/  or 

 http://www.jefferslivestock.com/   or

give them a call at           1-800-533-3377

Let the Jeffers folks know what you need and ask them to send you both their Pet and Livestock catalog.  I have always been pleased with the friendly service I have received from Jeffers.

 

Recommended Dosage of Safeguard:

The recommended dosage of Safeguard is 1 ml per 5 lbs of beagle bodyweight.  An average size hound of 25 pounds would receive 5 ml per day for a 3 day period. (15 ml total)   This means that a 1000 ml bottle of Safeguard can deworm a kennel full of Beagles on a bi-monthly treatment program for a long time.

Proactive Schedule:  In years gone by, I kept a pen full of  worm infested hounds.  When I saw signs of worms, I would attack my little hounds and their worm problem with some oversize purple pills or high-dollar worm meds that I got from the vet.  It would always take several types of dewormer to rid my hounds of their gut full of worms.  The worms would all soon be back and I would have to do it all over again.

Safeguard given for 3-days every-other month has replaced the old plan with one that will first rid my hounds of canine worms and then keep them worm free.

We should not wait to see worms before we take acton.  A routine schedule using Safeguard will keep your hounds worm free.

I mark my calendar and worm my hounds on the 15th, 16th and 17th of every other month.  Example: Jan, Mar, May, Jul, Sep, Nov.

Weight-in: On the first day of worming (15th) I weigh each hound.  I use a bathroom scale to weigh my hounds.  I first weigh myself and make note of how much I weigh.  Example: 190 pounds.  I then pick up a hound and step back on the scale.  I subtract my weight from our combined weight.  If my hound and I weigh in at 215 pounds, I would substract 190 from 215 and determine that that the hound weighs 25 lbs.  I repeat this weigh-in process for each hound and record their weight.  I will need each hound's weight when I worm them on the 16th and 17th.  Recording weights, also allows me to be aware of any weight change between each worming peiord (60 days).

When a hound weighs in at a weight that can be devided by 5 it is easy to determine how much Safeguard to give that hound, however when they weight 24, 26 or 31 pounds you will have to give it some thought.  The following chart helps me to quickly know the correct amount of Safeguard to give any hound.

Safeguard Chart:

Given bi-monthly, 1 cc or ml per 5 lbs…  for 3 consecutive days…..

LBS=ML      8=1.6     9=1.8   10=2      11=2.2    12=2.4       13=2.6     14=2.8   15=3      16=3.2   17=3.4    18=3.6    19=3.8     20=4      21=4.2   22=4.4   23=4.6    24=4.8          25=5        26=5.2   27=5.4   28=5.6   29=5.8    30=6        31=6.2     32=6.4   33=6.6   34=6.8   35=7       36=7.2       37=7.4     38=7.6   39=7.8   40=8                        

 In the above chart the number before the equals (=) sign is the weight of the hound.  The number following the equals sign is the amout of Safeguard to give on each of the 3 days.  Example: a 21 pound hound would get 4.2 cc Safeguard each day.

Use a 10 or 12 cc syringe to draw up the correct amount of Safeguard to be given to each hound.

10 cc syringe

 If you are using the 1000 ml bottle, you will find it easyer to draw the Safeguard into the syringe from a smaller cup or container.  A container the size of the 125 ml Safeguard seems to work well. 

 

The above chart works best when you are using the liquid Safeguard.  If you are using the paste it is a bit harder to administer the exact amount listed above.

The paste comes in a syringe type applicator. This applicator is designed to be used to worm horses up to 1000 pounds.  The plunger has a scale from 0 to 1000 and a ring that can be turned to the size horse (600 lbs, 800 lbs ect...) to be wormed.  If the horse weighed 1000 pounds or more you would turn the ring all the way to the top and give the horse the full content of the applicator.   All of this has little to do with worming your hound because the amount a dog gets per pound of body weight is far different than the amount given to a horse.

The Safeguard paste for a 1000 pound horse has 25 gms of wormer.  Now remember that 1 gm = 1 ml = 1cc.    Now if you are a Math professor with a good caculator, you should be able to take all the above facts and worm your hounds with some degree of accuracy.

First you will need to find what number on the applicator scale that represents 1 gm.   1000 divided by 25 = 40.  So 1 gm = 40

To make things easy, say you have a 25 pound hound to worm with the paste.  25 lbs divided by 5 =  5 gms of paste needed.  5 times (X) 40 = 200 on the applicator scale.  "This first hound will be easy." 

You need to remove the cover off the tip of the applicator.  Back the ring off just a little.  Slowly push the plunger down just enough for the paste to come to the end of but not out of the tip.  Now set the ring on 200.  Open your hounds mouth and push the plunger causing the paste to go into the top of the dogs mouth.

After the first hound things may be a little more of a challege.

If you are so lucky as for all of your hounds to weigh 25 pounds then you just move the ring up to 400 and then 600 ect... You could worm a pack of 5 / 25 pound hounds with this one applicator of Safeguard.  (For 1 Day)

What do you do when some hounds weigh in at 24 pounds or 18 pounds?  You do the best you can.  For me, I would use the liquid wormer.  If I was forced to use the paste, I would empty the paste into a small container, add a few drops of water then mix it all up into a liquid.  Then I would use the 10 or 12 cc syringe to worm my hounds.

Safeguard Can Be a Pups Best Friend !

Safeguard is given to pups (like grown hounds) based on weight.  I use a small food scale with a plastic basket to weigh the pups.

 

For their first few days (Day 5 thru Day 12) each day I let the pups lick a few drops of safeguard off my finger.  On day 14, when they are 2 weeks old, I use a 3 cc syringe to  give each pup a one day dose, based on their weight.  Beagle pups at 2 weeks old may be as small as 8 or 9 ounces or could already weigh over a pound.  I do know they start to really take off and may double in weight every week for a while.

 

I give a one day dose of safeguard at 2, 3, 4, and 5 weeks.  At 6 weeks old I give them a dose three days in a row.  I then put them on the every-other month schedule with the big dogs.  I worm the mama hound each time the pups are wormed. (Weeks 2-6)

 

Based on their weight, pups should get 2/10 of a cc per pound (lb).  Safeguard is very “SAFE” and if you give a little too much, no harm is done.  With this in mind, I do a little rounding up when worming very small pups.  If a pup weighed 8 ounces or less, I would give them 1/10 of a cc.  If they weigh 9 ounces up to 1 lb, they would get 2/10 of a cc.

 

Puppy Chart:

Weight                                   amt. SG             

8 oz or less                             = 1/10 cc            

9 oz to 1 lb                            = 2/10 cc            

1lb 1 oz to 1 lb 8oz              = 3/10 cc

1 lb 9 oz to 2 lb                     = 4/10 cc

2 lb 1 oz to 2 lb 8 oz            = 5/10 cc

2 lb 9 oz to 3 lb                     = 6/10 cc

3 lb 1 oz to 3 lb 8 oz            = 7/10 cc

3 lb 9 oz to 4 lb                     = 8/10 cc

4 lb 1 oz to 4 lbs 8 0z           = 9/10 cc

4 lb 9 oz to 5 lb                     = 1 cc   (One full cc)

5 lb 1 oz to 5 lb 8 oz            = 1 and 1/10 cc

5 lb 9 oz to 6 lb                     = 1 and 2/10 cc

6 lb 1 oz to 6 lb 8 oz            = 1 and 3/10 cc

6 lb 9 oz to 7 lb                     = 1 and 4/10 cc

7 lb 1 oz to 7 lb 8 oz            = 1 and 5/10 cc

At 8 pounds you may not be able to use the small food scale.  You may now follow the chart for the big hounds.

In addition to this excelent worming plan, keeping your kennels and dog yards clean will help to keep your hounds worm free. 

Get with the Safguard Plan and you will soon see a significant improvement in your dogs. 

 

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Prevention and Control of External Pest  (Ticks and Fleas)

 

Notice:  The Prevention of Ticks and Fleas will be covered here as soon as I can settle on a workable plan.

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Feeding of Pups & Hounds  

Nutrition:    ”I am ready to eat.”

Like all other areas of this web site, I only want to share what I do and how it works for me.  I know there are lots of good keepers of the hounds that have excellent feeding programs, using any of a number of quality foods.  If you have a good thing going, stay with it.

Quality foods are provided by many mills through out the country.  Most of their labels read a lot like the next one.  For years I have used an excellent feed that is available at a fair price.  We have all heard the phrase, “You get what you pay for.”  While this is usually true, when it comes to dog food you could be paying for and getting more than you need.  When we consider human nutrition, we are concerned with the basic four food groups, vitamins, minerals, carbohydrates, proteins, fats and calories.  Unlike our four legged friends, we all eat a variety of meat, potatoes, vegetables, breads and beverages to satisfy our appetite and meet out nutritional needs.  In days gone by, many of our hounds depended on table scraps for their day’s rations.  We now live in a day when formulated dog foods are available and designed to meet the needs of our hounds. 

There are many articles on the internet that provide a wealth of information all about dog nutrition.  You can run a search and pick from a long list.  I found most articles contain much of the same information.  One article is found on the RHO site. 

 http://rabbithuntingonline.com/magazine/beaglehealth/nutrition.htm

This article is packed full of good basic information and is a good example of the information found on the internet. 

My plan:  

No Scraps.  I never feed my hounds scraps.  There is no way to keep up with what and how much each dog is getting.

Fresh Water:  I always keep fresh clean water in front of my hounds.  I try to keep the water buckets out of the sun.  This reduces the amount of algae growth in the buckets.  I wash buckets then fill them with a strong bleach solution.  I pour the bleach solution into the next bucket to be washed and do not rinse the bleach residue from the bucket.  I fill the clean bucket with fresh water.  During the hot summer time water buckets will need to be cleaned often.

Quality Foods: 

I have used Tops Dog Food for a number of years.  It is a regional brand that is manufactured by     Specialty Feeds, Inc. in Memphis, Tn. 

During the off season (Summer Time) I always use Tops 21.      

     It is 21 % Protein and 8 % Fat. 

  

When the hounds are active and hunting several times each week, I then use Tops 26 or Rex Dog Food.  The Tops 26 has 26 % Protein and the Rex has 25 % Protein.

Amount to Feed:  I feed my grown hounds once each day.  I feed them 10 to 12 oz. during the summer time.  And will increase it a little when they are more active during hunting season.  I normally keep my hounds in individual kennels.  This helps me to regulate the amount they eat and to check their appearance for weight gain or loss.  If I see them start to plumb up, I will try to increase activity and reduce the amount of feed. If they are showing some ribs and lots of flank then I will increase their feeding.

 

 

MY PUPPY PLAN: 

NEW PUPS:       Pups are born with lunch ready and available.  With a little luck, you will have a good mama dog that will take care of her pups for the first weeks of their life.  She will need to produce lots of quality milk to take care of a large litter of pups.

Take Care of Mama:    Weeks before the pups are whelped mama will require a change in diet.  A quality puppy food will provide the nutrition needed for the growth and development of the pups.  The amount of food is increased and may be up to about double the normal volume the week before the pups are due.

A well fed hound full of pups will plump right up.

 

Four or five days before the pups are due, I start giving the mama hound a product called Milk-Aid, made by Happy Jack.  I follow the instructions on the container and give her Milk-Aid twice a day.  I continue this until the pups are 10 days old, then decrease dosage gradually until pups are weaned.  Milk-Aid helps with milk production and keeps the acid content low.  I have used this product with great success for a number of years.  The mama hound shown above raised 11 fine pups and I think Milk-Aid helped her to produce the large volume of milk needed.

Until the pups are weaned, the volume and quality of food provided must remain high.  When the pups are three to four weeks old they are growing at a rapid rate and are putting lots of pressure on the mama.  She needs lots of food and water and it is time to start the pups feeding from a pan. 

 

Before moving on to pan feeding the pups, I want to share the steps to follow to help the mama hound dry up after the pups are weaned.

       

        Drying Up Mama:

As the pups get older they will be eating more and more from the pan and will not need to nurse as much.  The last few days the pups are with the mama, they may be down to nursing just once or twice a day.  As the pressure comes off the amount of feed offered to the mama dog can be reduced back to a normal level.

 

 1:     The first day the pups are gone, the mama hound will have a hard time.  Her bag will be full of milk.  To start her drying up, this day she will get no food or water.  She will cry all day but she will live.

 

 2:     On the second day, she gets the water   back and 1/4 her normal feed.

 

 3:     On day three, she gets 1/2 her feed.

 

 4:     On day four, she gets 3/4 her feed.

 

 5:     On day five, she gets her full feed ration.

 

At the end of five days her bag will be down and in a few more days she will be dry.

  

    

When a litter of pups are three weeks old, they are ready to start eating from a pan.  I always start them on a thin gruel.  As they grow both in size and appetite, the volume and consistency of this gruel is increased.

GRUEL: This gruel is a mixture of:

              Powdered milk replacement for calves

              Soaked puppy kibble

              Canned puppy food

              Cottage cheese

              Baby cereal

I get the powdered milk from my local feed store.  I always mix it with hot water.  This helps to dissolve the powder.  When the pups are young, I keep the strength of the milk weak.  As the pups mature the milk is mixed a little richer.  I put all the above ingredients in a blender and make a puppy delight.  I normally make enough for two or more days.  I separate the gruel into containers for each feeding and then refrigerate. 

 

When I am ready to feed, I heat the gruel in a microwave.  When the pups are young, I feed only the gruel.  Not too hot, not too cold, but just right.  As the pups get older, the volume and consistence is increased and served over canned puppy food.  I have been using canned Puppy Pedigree.

 

By the end of the fourth week the pups should be ready to sink their sharp little teeth into some puppy kibble.  I normally provide Dry PMI Puppy Kibble (recently I have given my pups Tops Plus) along with the gruel served over canned puppy food.  I prefer PMI or Tops Plus but any quality puppy kibble is good.  

Puppies should be weaned off the mama hound during their fifth week.  They should start week six eating some gruel and more kibble.  By the end of week eight, they should be off the gruel and eating some canned puppy food and more kibble.  They should now be down to eating two or three 15 minute feeding each day.  Pups should not be over fed at this point.  If they are allowed to eat all the time, they tend to get a little fat and will develop a surplus of fat cells that will stay with them throughout life.

I feed pups a quality puppy kibble up until they are nine months old. 

 My last litter I used Tops Puppy or Tops Plus

At nine months most young hounds will have attained their full growth and be ready to eat with the big dogs.